Today is overcast and humid and it feels great to walk, because by now my body is used to walking longer distances with the backpack. It took about a week, as they say.

The road today runs for large parts along the busy N-120 highway, and in one place even weaving through ongoing road works. I had to step through mud with bulldozers, trucks, and men wearing helmets and yellow safety vests! Not exactly the idyllic setting from the last few days…

At one point as I approached Grañon, I hear a strange sound and look up. It’s a paraglider flying over the fields with the help of a motor, and he swings by and waves to me and this cheers me up!

After an hour and a half I reach Grañon. This village is the only one that is some distance from the busy N-120 road, which gives it a peaceful setting.

It’s wonderful to sit in the shade of the tree and have breakfast, and watch the other pilgrims slowly approaching on the long uphill I’ve just walked.

There is a man sitting at the next table and it turns out to be Javier, the owner of the food truck I bought my breakfast from. His mother lives here, he tells me, and I guess he’s discovered the perfect spot to have a lucrative business, since just about every pilgrim stops here.

Leaving Grañon on the other side of the village.

The lovely sound of the swallows darting around the church in Redecilla del Camino, but also the sound of the busy road is never very far away.

Quaint house in Catildelgado.

Houses I pass in Vilamayor del Río, where I stop for a while and have a second breakfast. We have left the region of La Rioja, and are now in Castilla y León, the largest autonomous community in Spain by area.

Walking the camino is very much about the mindset you choose to have. Which do you think you would focus on? The heavy traffic on the motorway on the right, or the early summer flowers and the view over the fields on the left? Sound on please!

After five hours and 45 minutes I arrive in Belorado. The hostel I’m staying in is in the blue house on the right.

Hostal B is the name of this private albergue, and I’m staying right at the top under the beautiful rafters. Even though it’s an open dorm, they’ve created low partitions, which makes it feel cozy and more private, and the cotton sheets and pillowcases are an added luxury.

Belorado is another delightful town I’m pleasantly surprised by. This is the church of Santa María y San Pedro.

Resting in the shade of the plane trees in the town square.

For dinner I go to the albergue next door, the Albergue Cuatro Cantones, that has an excellent restaurant. Here I meet Maureen from Ireland and we hit it off immediately. We shared a table with Julie from France, and I have the best meal I’ve ever had on the camino. For starters I have a delicious cold Gazpacho with Iberia ham and croutons, followed by a savoury hake in a tasty tomato sauce, and for dessert a scrumptious chocolate mousse. What a feast! If you ever find yourself in Belorado, this is the place to eat for sure! And what a wonderful way to end the day, to share a meal and have an inspiring conversation with newfound friends.

Tomorrow I’m having a rest day, which means I will only walk for 12 km. From Belorado to St. Juan de Ortega it’s pretty much uphill and downhill as we pass three mountains; Alto Mojapán, Alto Pedraja, and Alto Carneo, and I have chosen to stop just before the first really steep incline in Villafranca Montes de Oca. Why don’t you follow me there?

Check out my earlier posts to get the full context of this pilgrimage and the one I did the year before, and sign up to be notified when the next post is released.

All photos copyright Anita Martinez Beijer © All rights reserved