Not quite the 05.30 departure I had in mind, but 06.15. I’m getting there if slowly. The town sleeps but is pretty with all the lights. Don’t see anyone else around and it will be a while before I run into other pilgrims.
I chose the Pereje route which is relatively flat. For the more fit and seasoned walkers, there are two other routes, one that takes you over Alto Pradela and the other longer one over Alto Dragonete.
Villafranca del Bierzo in the distance
Today I’m heading to Las Herrerías, which makes it a 20,3 km day, a more suitable length for me. If you follow different forums and groups, as I have done this second time around, you’ll discover there are about as many opinions as people. My tip for you would be, read them but then follow your own instincts. Someone wrote that he thought this particular stretch was boring as it’s next to a highway, so you might as well take a taxi…I myself enjoy the walk.
Sunrise behind the mountain ridge
The path runs along the Valcarse valley and the old main road, but very few cars pass here, as they use the new highway, which is a state-of-the-art affair high up in the air.
What’s more, the road follows a river, the río Valcarce, and it’s wonderful to walk to the sound of water and birdsong. In addition, a large part of the route is sheltered by the mountain peaks, pine and chestnut trees so is cool and pleasant which means that you avoid… the sun! How perfect isn’t this!
Spanish Chestnut tree
Cafes, on the other hand, are in short supply. It’s only when I have come halfway that one finally appears, and there I find all the pilgrims. It has a lovely atmosphere as people are greeting and joking with each other, and I finally find the community feel that has been lacking for me. In the long line waiting for my coffee and a tortilla, I start talking to a woman next to me. When she hears that I’m from Sweden, she exclaims, then you had to meet Nana, she’s sitting over there and she’s also from Sweden!
I join them and recognize now that I have already seen them on the first stretch after Astorga. They are three incredibly nice women living in the US, doing the Camino together, and we have a nice long chat before they move on. We are all staying in Las Herrerías, so we’ll catch up later.
Around noon the shade has disappeared and it’s really hot again. The second part of the route feels twice as long as the first. There’re the strangest things about distances. I have walked 10 km without any breakfast to speak of without any problems whatsoever. On the steep climb to Las Herrerías, as the sun beat down, I sit down in the shade at every chance I get, and the very last 400 m feels like 4 km and it’s tough going.
Las Herrerías is a nice riverside hamlet, with green pastures and a stable, close to the border of Galicia. I wolf down my lunch and take a lovely shower and a siesta at the right time when siestas should be taken! No trudging on sun-drenched roads. Wonderful!
I have dinner next door and the girls are there. We agree to walk together tomorrow at meet up at 6 o’clock.
Tomorrow Galicia! I look forward enormously to revisit O Cebreiro! Lights out!
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All photos copyright Anita Martinez Beijer © All rights reserved
The Camino de Santiago is a pilgrimage rooted in medieval origins. It leads to the tomb believed to be that of the Apostle Saint James the Greater, in the crypt of Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. The Camino was, and still is, Europe’s oldest, busiest, and most well-known route.
Bohemialife 